Self-regulating cable at the eaves, gutters and valleys keeps a drain path open so the ice dam never forms. Best installed in early fall.
Call (970) 236-7078Tell us roughly how many feet of eave and gutter you are dealing with. Call (970) 236-7078.
Heat cable does not melt the snow off your roof — it keeps a drain path open so meltwater leaves the roof instead of freezing at the eave and backing up under the roofing. That distinction is the whole reason some installations work and others disappoint. Used correctly, heat tape in Aspen is one of the most cost-effective ways to stop the ice dam that keeps ruining the same ceiling every February.
Aspen roofs generate meltwater constantly through the winter, even at low air temperatures, because sun on a dark roof and heat escaping the living space both melt snow from below. That water has to get somewhere. If the path to the gutter and down the downspout is frozen solid, the water ponds behind ice at the eave and works backward under the roofing. Heat cable's job is to keep that path liquid.
Self-regulating cable changes its heat output along its own length as local temperature changes. Where the cable sits in ice it works hard; where it hangs in open air it backs off. It can be cut to length on site and it is safe where it overlaps itself — which matters, because a zigzag eave pattern crosses itself constantly. Constant-wattage cable runs at full output everywhere regardless, cannot overlap, and costs more to operate. Typical self-regulating cable draws about 3 to 8 watts per foot.
Cable left switched on from October to May is the most common reason people conclude heat tape is expensive. A thermostat controller runs it only in the temperature band where ice actually forms — roughly the high 30s down to the low teens. Moisture-plus-temperature sensing controllers go further and energize only when there is both cold and water present. On an Aspen-sized run of cable, the controller pays for itself.
The other half is the attic. Most chronic ice dams in Aspen are heat-loss problems: recessed lights leaking warm air, a poorly sealed attic hatch, ductwork run through unconditioned space, insulation that has settled below its rated depth, or soffit vents blocked by that same insulation. A cold, well-ventilated roof deck does not melt snow from underneath in the first place.
Heat cable manages the water you cannot prevent. Air sealing, insulation and ventilation reduce how much meltwater there is to manage. Homes that do both stop having ice dams; homes that do neither call for ice dam removal every winter.
Heat tape and roof heat cable installation in Aspen, Snowmass Village, Woody Creek, Old Snowmass, Basalt, El Jebel, Carbondale and Glenwood Springs. The right time to install is early fall, before snow arrives — cable goes on a dry roof far more safely and cheaply than a frozen one, and it is ready when the first real cycle hits in November.
Heat cable installed in the fall costs a fraction of steaming the same dam off in February.
(970) 236-7078It stops the damage, which is not quite the same thing. Heat cable does not melt the snowpack off your roof and it is not supposed to. What it does is keep a continuous drain path open — through the eave, through the gutter and down the downspout — so meltwater has somewhere to go instead of ponding behind ice and backing up under the roofing. Used correctly it is very effective at preventing interior water.
Self-regulating cable draws roughly 3 to 8 watts per foot, and only where it is actually cold — the cable's output drops as it warms, so the sections sitting in open air use very little. Cost depends on how much cable, how cold the winter is, and whether it runs on a controller. Pairing it with a thermostat or moisture sensor rather than leaving it on all season is the single biggest saving available.
Constant-wattage cable puts out the same heat everywhere along its length whether it needs to or not, and cannot be overlapped. Self-regulating cable varies its output along its own length in response to local temperature, can be cut to length on site, and is safe where it crosses itself. For roof and gutter work in a climate like Aspen's, self-regulating is the right answer nearly every time.
The eave in a zigzag pattern covering the overhang, then into the gutter and all the way down the downspout — that last part is the one people skip, and skipping it just moves the ice blockage to the bottom of the downspout. Valleys, roof-to-wall junctions, and around skylights and chimneys are the other places ice reliably forms.
Properly installed, no. It attaches with roof-safe clips, not nails or staples through the roofing. Bad installs — fasteners driven through shingles, cable stapled down, cheap cable left to bake all season — are what cause problems. This is electrical work on a roof; it wants somebody who does it regularly.
Often, yes. Heat cable manages water. It does not manage weight. A roof carrying a heavy load still needs snow removed, and cable does nothing for a drift behind a dormer or a lower roof buried by a release from above.